Choose Cookware

Cookware Material: Tin

Cooking surface: 2/5 Poor (fragile, low melting point)
Conductive layer: N/A (tin is never the main heat conductive layer)
External surface: N/A Poor (tin is too soft for exterior use)
Example: Mauviel
Health safety: 4/5 Good (tin is mostly but not totally non-reactive)

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DESCRIPTION AND COMPOSITION

The bottom of this new pot was heated by an uneven heating element. The tin that was exposed to temperatures above 322F softened. Even when the tin cooled down, it no longer looked pristine. The sides of the pot never reached softening temperatures, nor did a crescent-shaped portion of the bottom of the pot. (This pot was taken off the burner soon after the tin started to soften.)

Tin is an extremely soft metal that you can scratch with your fingernail.¹ Tin transitions from shiny “beta” tetragonal tin to rhombic tin between 161C and 202.8C (321.8F and 397.04F).² It’s still tin, just in a different crystal arrangement and slightly less shiny. Tin melts at 231.9C (449.42F).³

Tin is used in copper cookware as a lining because tin resists corrosion, is nontoxic, and is relatively non-reactive compared to bare copper. Ingesting large amounts of copper can lead to negative health consequences, so always have your tin-lined copper re-lined once you see large bare areas of copper peeking through.⁴

IS TIN TOXIC?

Tin is not toxic in small amounts, especially elemental tin, hence the proverbial “tin can” for food.⁵ Unless you plan to gnaw on your tin-lined cookware, it should not be a problem to absorb a milligram here or there from tin.

TIN-LINED COPPER VS STAINLESS-LINED COPPER

Frankly I would avoid both since copper cookware tends to sell for small fortunes, and you can get thick aluminum for much cheaper and at a lower weight and still get very good thermal conductivity.

But if you must have copper than stainless-lined is the way to go for most people. Here’s why:

[Read more…]

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Cookware Even Heating Rankings (Induction and Electric Coil, Radiant, and Halogen)

A <a href="https://www.centurylife.org/in-depth-product-review-demeyere-atlantis-and-john-pawson-11-inch-4-2-quart-28-cm-4-liter-saute-pan/">Demeyere saute pan with 2 mm thick copper bottom (28cm)</a> — A Demeyere saute pan with 2 mm thick copper bottom (28cm)

For natural gas/butane/propane rankings, please see Even Heating Rankings (Gas). For details about testing methodology, see here. The pans tested below were tested on an induction cooker. If you’re in the market for a portable/countertop induction cooker, I wrote an extensive guide here.

SEEMINGLY EVERY COMPANY CLAIMS THAT THEIR COOKWARE IS EVEN-HEATING, BUT IS THAT TRUE?

The job of stovetop cookware is a) to smooth out the uneven heat coming from the burner underneath so that the entire cooking surface of the cookware is the same temperature; and b) to keep your food in the Maillard reaction temperature zone–not too hot and not too cold. If you have too much of an imbalance in temperatures, you wind up with hot or cold spots that can undermine your dish by leaving some food overcooked and some food undercooked. You may even scorch carcinogens into your food or produce carcinogenic smoke, if some hotspots grow hotter than the oil’s smoke point while you are waiting for non-hotspots to catch up in temperature. (Hotspotting is particularly troublesome on nonstick pans because you can overheat the hotspots when trying to bring up the temperature of the colder spots, and overheating PTFE/Teflon will permanently damage it and cause offgas.) If you’ve ever cooked fish where part of a fillet got overcooked while the rest was undercooked or made rice and had some undercooked while the rest burned, then you’ve already experienced the joy of uneven heating.

[Read more…]

Cookware Material: Carbon Steel

Cooking surface: 2/5 Poor (4/5 Good once seasoned, it is less sticky and very much like seasoned cast iron)
Conductive layer: 2/5 Poor
External surface: 2/5 Poor (4/5 Good if seasoned on the outside as well as the inside of the pan, to make it more rust-resistant)
Example: Lodge
Health safety: 4/5 Good (assuming no ill effects from seasoning)

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DESCRIPTION AND COMPOSITION

Carbon steel is a durable, tough metal that can take on seasoning, similar to cast iron. The definition of “carbon steel” can vary depending on the manufacturer, but in general the steel is a non-stainless steel, around 99% pure iron and thus very similar to cast iron. Carbon steel is naturally magnetic and thus works on induction.

What’s the difference between carbon steel and cast iron in terms of cookware, then? Simple: you can’t make cast iron too thin or else it will warp (become un-flat) or fracture when exposed to high heat. Plus pouring molten iron into casts necessitates a certain minimum thickness. So if you want a thin cast iron pan, what you do instead is to use carbon steel, which is less brittle and can be worked into sheets and punched out and formed into thinner pans. These pans are more durable than cast iron of equivalent thickness. (Note that thin carbon steel in the 2 mm range can still warp when exposed to large temperature changes quickly, such as putting a hot pan under cold water.) Carbon steel may also be easier to season and de-season than cast iron, depending on the brand and how polished the carbon steel is.

Please note that you may encounter thin, lightweight, enamel-coated carbon steel pots and pans from time to time at places like Wal-Mart. These pieces of cookware do not heat evenly on the bottom because they are so thin. And when the enamel inevitably chips off, the underlying carbon steel rusts just like cast iron does. Nevertheless, these pieces are cheap and induction-compatible and can do a decent job in the oven (where heat is far more even than on the stovetop) or of boiling water or other such tasks where something like water spreads the heat around the pot to make it more even.

Also note that thin carbon steel is a wildly popular choice for woks. This is because thin carbon steel heat unevenly, and this is accentuated by the wok’s bowl-like shape. The center-bottom of the wok gets much hotter than the rest of the pot, so you can stir-fry part of the food, move it over to the side, and stir-fry another part of the food. Continually tossing food does the same thing by rotating portions of the meal through the hot central bottom area of the wok. Cast iron woks also exist, but they are usually not as thin and strong and thus are heavier and less well-suited for the stir-fry tossing motion. A few manufacturers have made aluminum or other such woks, but the more even heating of aluminum partially defeats the purpose of stir-frying in the first place.

Use and care of carbon steel is virtually identical to that of cast iron. Given a choice between the two, I’d rather have the cast iron because both are such bad heat conductors that you need all the thickness you can get, and cast iron is usually made thicker.

Back to A No-Nonsense Guide to Cookware Materials.

Cookware Material: Cast Iron

Cooking surface: 2/5 Poor (3/5 Good once seasoned, it is less sticky as the surface becomes like hard plastic; but still struggles with acidic foods so it’s not for all-purpose cooking)
Conductive layer: 2/5 Poor
External surface: 1/5 Very Poor (3/5 Good if seasoned on the outside as well as the inside of the pan, to make it more rust-resistant)
Example: Lodge, Staub/Le Creuset (for enameled cast iron)
Health safety: 4/5 Good (assuming no ill effects from seasoning)

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DESCRIPTION

First, the pros: cast iron is cheap and can develop a semi-nonstick surface (“seasoning“) and can be heated to very high temperatures safely, and going from stove to oven (or vice versa) is one way to work around cast iron’s relatively poor thermal conductivity. Cast iron is usually made 3mm+ thick so it will have excellent heat retention and not drop in temperature too much even if you throw a cold steak on it, but note that the same can be said of things such as stainless steel with thick aluminum disc bases, which do not cost much more than cast iron. Thick cladded designs like Demeyere’s Proline skillets (4.8mm thick, 3.7mm of which is aluminum) also have great heat retention. Pound for pound, aluminum has nearly double the heat capacity of cast iron and can recover from losing heat much faster and more evenly. [Read more…]

Cookware Material: Seasoning

Nonstick pan popularity has waned as people have become aware of potential health risks from using nonstick materials at high heat. One alternative to nonstick pans is to use cast iron pans and to “season” them with cooking oil. At high enough temperatures, cooking oils will polymerize, and with enough layers of such polymers you wind up with a thin film of plastic-like, somewhat nonstick material. Over years of use, cast iron will accumulate more and more layers of polymerized oils on the cast iron’s cooking surface. The more layers, the less iron-leaching and the more nonstick the cast iron will become. Even the best-seasoned cast iron is not truly nonstick, but it’s good enough for many people–even for notoriously sticky foods like eggs and fish. [Read more…]

Cookware Material: Aluminum (Aluminium)

Cooking surface: 2/5 Poor (4/5 Very Good if anodized)
Conductive layer: 4/5 Good (5/5 Excellent if over 3.5 mm thick or with thick conductive disc base)
External surface: 2/5 Poor (4/5 Very Good if anodized)
Example: Anolon Nouvelle Copper Nonstick
Health safety: 4/5 Good (5/5 Excellent if anodized)

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DESCRIPTION

Compared to other metals, aluminum (also known as aluminium¹) is highly thermally conductive (pound for pound, aluminum delivers the highest thermal conductivity of all cookware materials), cheap, and low-density, but not particularly hard or strong. Heat treatment and other techniques can strengthen and harden aluminum, but such techniques can also make machining and forming pots and pans harder as well. [Read more…]

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